FATTORE CAMPO fashion at IUAV 2018

3 Luglio, 2018

Venice, 29 June. We head towards the headquarters of the IUAV University of Venice. The appointment is with “Fashion at IUAV 2018”, the Graduation Show that presents the best collections made by the graduates of the degree courses in Fashion at the University of Venice, coordinated by designers Arthur Arbesser, Veronika Allmayer-Beck, and Fabio Quaranta. This year’s the title is “Fattore Campo”, an expression that as writes Maria Luisa Frisa, director of the three-year degree course in Fashion Design, in her text for the event’s publication, together Saul Marcadent: “In sport it indicates the advantage enjoyed by an athlete or a team playing in a favorable field”. And it is following this philosophy that the teachers and students of the courses in Fashion have decided to present the collections in the soccer field of Santa Marta. A protected area, familiar and adjacent to the cotton factory which has been the headquarters of IUAV since 1996. We also find out from the publication that during the research done by students and teachers for the event, they found some images that document that the  theatrical comedy of “Mistero Buffo” of Dario Fo and Franca Rame it was represented in 1977, right in the soccer field of Santa Marta. Therefore, the choice to reactivate a collective space. It is a theme that makes us think beyond Italy’s lack of presence in this year’s world Cup and at the title of this 18° edition of the Venice Architecture Biennale: “Freespace”.

All the show’s collections made us enjoy the idea of ​​team play, talent and confrontation, but we decided to describe eight of them. For the BA show collections we mention Enrico Vettorazzo, who with his man’s collection “sBuffo sBrillo” is inspired by the image of a crazy tightrope walker, in balance between striped fabrics and pvc details. Giovanni Pacienza, with “Arberia” is in love with a narcissist-flamboyant, from the”arbëreshë” roots (Albanian ethno-linguistic minority); Cotton shirts mix with leather kilts and caps that become perfect fetishes.

Giovanni Mareschi, speaks to us of mostertruck men ready to take part in a rodeo; leather jackets, trousers with fringes and open printed shirts represent the identity of his manly and rude man. Giulia Piccinetti and Camilla Ferrazzi work describing a woman “Siberianiris”, a defined block of colors, fabrics and shapes that coexist together. Francesco Galeotti and Jacopo Nordio play on Italian stereotypes, putting on the catwalk models that wear clothes, prints and accessories in the “italianvice” style. This collection at the end of the show won the Pitti Tutorship Reward, a prestigious award that guarantees an effective support for entering the world of work.

For the MA show, Veronica Campigotto, Sara Peretti and Teresa Tognazzi with the collection “A Festa” analyze the concept of party and its ritual. Dresses disguised as dresses, models covered with tulle and elaborate knit structures. Massimo Simonetto with his “Abiti di Massa”, decides to use trash as the base for is experimentation, imagining new forms. To close Andrea Casaril who with his man collection “Zer-041” builds a sort of combat uniform to survive the massive tourism. Every detail of the garments are inspired by Venice, from the “forcole” to the high water-proof overalls, to the flag of the “Serenissima”.

During the event, the performance of Marco Mazzoni who recently published the book Atlas Soccer (Bruno, 2016) . A frenetic dance to the rhythm of metal music, illuminated only by a beam of light. A clear message to freedom of expression and identity. We thank the students and teachers of the IUAV for sharing their vision; a vision that makes us think of the words of the philosopher Giorgio Agamben: “Contemporary is the one who receives in full face the bundle of darkness coming from his time”.


Photos: Mariano Barrientos